Saturday 10 April 2021

Blogging from A to Z challenge: I is for Ingredients to look out for

#AtoZChallenge 2021 April Blogging from A to Z Challenge letter I

This is my personal list of ingredients I look out for in a product. Unfortunately this is not a complete list, since that would be several pages long, but this is just a rough overview. 

As a general rule, I like silicones. It probably comes with the coarsie-territory, but I never had issues with cones and they really help to keep my hair manageable. 
Amodimethicone is a cone particularly prone to build up.
Dimethicone is an emollient and silicone
Dimethiconol is a silicone polymer, which is a non-water soluble film former. Since it isn't water soluble, it's a silicone that builds up easily. 

I also like Quaterniums. I know some don't. 
Polyquaternium-10 is a quaternium ammonium compound that is particularly prone to building up.
Polyquaternium-37 is a quaternium ammonium compound and will bind to the damaged areas of hair.
Quaternium-87 is a quaternium ammonium compound and will bind to the damaged areas of hair.

I generally try to avoid too much proteins since my hair is as coarse as it is. Protein just attaches to the surface and can't penetrate to where it should go, so it leaves my hair crunchy and irritated.
Arginine is an amino acid found in human hair and supposedly promotes circulation and stimulates growth hormones to prevent hair loss.
Betaine is an amino acid with humectant properties.
Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin is a protein
Hydrolyzed Keratin is a protein
Hydrolyzed collagen is a protein
Hydrolyzed keratin is a protein
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein is a protein

I also have a list of more or less random ingredients I like in my products.
Allantoin has a soothing effect on skin.
Cetearyl Alcohol is an emulsifier which means it lowers the surface tension between oil and water so it can dissolve oils and be used for cleansing
Cetyl Alcohol is an emulsifier which means it lowers the surface tension between oil and water so it can dissolve oils and be used for cleansing
Cetyl Esters is an emollient that soften hair and soothes the scalp
Creatine rebuilds and strengthen the hair structure  
Glycerin is a really good moisturizer and an humectant.
Niacinamide aka vitamin B3 is a very effective skin-restoring ingredient against ageing and environmental stress. Not entirely sure what good it would be for hair, but I can't protest against having it in a product that touches my scalp.
Panthenol does maybe-maybe not penetrate and strengthen hair.

I love sunscreen in my products! I'm not sure how much good it does, especially in rinse-off products, but I don't care. Even the tiniest little bit of effect is better than none.
Avobenzone is the best UVA protection of non-mineral filters, but also protects against UVB. Good safety rating.
Ethylhexyl Triazone is a sunscreen protecting against UVB radiation.
Homosalate is a UVA and UVB protector with a decent safety rating.
Mexoryl SX has strong UVA protection
Octinoxate (Octyl methoxycinnamate) is a powerful UVB protector with a bad safety rating. It also goes under the name of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and octyl methoxycinnamate. I dig into this one a little bit more here
Octisalate is a UVA and UVB protector with a decent safety rating.
Octocrylene is a UVA and UVB protector with a decent safety rating.
Oxybenzone is a UVA and UVB protector with a bad safety rating. It could be a problem for sensitive skin types and there are some concerns about its impact on the oceans.
Titanium dioxide is a physical UVA and UVB protector with a decent safety rating.
Zinc oxide has excellent, physical UVA protection, but also protects against UVB. Is a potential acne trigger even though it’s generally considered safe for skin.

I generally avoid extracts, because you never really know what actually is in them. There is an episode of The Snailcast where Shell of Holysnails talks about how a supplier to her webshop offered her ruby extract to add to her products. Which is completely nonsensical, but explains a lot of what extracts can be. It can be something good, but it can also be a root quickly dipped in a bucket of alcohol. What it takes to extract the extract is never specified.

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