Blogging from A to Z challenge: U is for Updos

U is for updos. The very reason I grew my hair long to begin with. 

I never understood the reason anyone would grow their hair long and then either just leave it down all the time, or always wear the same thing. Long hair is the material for cool, fun and creative updos in my book, not something that should be long for the sake of length. 

When I first started growing my hair out, I just wanted to be able to make a simple ponytail. Then I reached flip/shoulder length and could do that, and I wanted more length to do a braid. Then I reached below shoulder length and could do that, and I wanted more length to do a cinnamon bun. Then I reached bra strap length and could do that, and I wanted more length to do a Chinese bun. Then I reached waist length and could do that, and I wanted more length to do a knotty bun. And etc, etc...

Wanting to do cool updos have been my drive for growing my hair long.

October last year I did a video series about updo (methods) for very long hair:

I also did the 29 hairdos in February challenge last year and this is what I did back then:
Braided Chinese bun
Braided Chinese bun/infinity variation
Braided cinnamon bun
Braided headband and Chinese bun combo
Braided Nautilus bun
Chinese bun
Cinnaknot bun
Crown wrap
Double braided buns
Double braided Chinese buns
Double braided Nautilus buns
Double figure 8 buns
Double Nautilus bun
Ellingwoman/Nautilus hybrid
Figure 8 bun
Four small braided cinnamon buns
Igor's mess
Infinity bun
Mega royal bun
Mickey mouse ears
Nautilus bun
Overhand knot bun
Rope bun

Royal bun
Sock bun
Simplified Elling woman bun
Triple braided buns
Triple braided buns, stacked
Wrapunder bun

And that is just covering the bunned updos, mostly excluding the variants. I'm also usually excluding things I've done for fun but don't find particularly wearable for one reason or another like the updo of my twin Caroline von Holnstein that I messed around with a lot. A lot. Like, really. A lot. A real lot. A lot. Well, you get the point.

As for braids, also excluding details and variants: 
Double Dutch three stranded braids split vertically
Double three stranded braids split horizontally
Double three stranded French braids horizontally
Eight three stranded braids
Four three stranded braids
Single five stranded English braid
Single seven stranded Dutch braid with a five strand base
Single three stranded French braid
Single three stranded Dutch braid
Single three stranded English braid
Three three stranded braids split horizontally

Blogging from A to Z challenge: T is for Terminal length

 

There are four ways to guestimate your terminal length:

By looking at the hemline

By using a picture and paint

By graph

By calculating

Disclaimer: All of these methods are absolute guestimates. 

There are many issues with each methods, such as layers interfering, that a lot of hairs have a shorter terminal length than others, and the fact that you can't know any of these numbers with 100% accuracy. 

By looking at the hemline

True terminal length means that your hair simply can't grow any longer. Here, everyone should say "Well, duh, Igor". 

But looking into what that means physically, it means that the hair is at the resting phase right before the hair sheds. This also means that the hair is only at this phase for a matter of weeks. Knowing this, we also know that this means that true terminal will have extreme taper, because so few hairs are at this stage. In fact, some of the people who have reached true, actual terminal on the hair forums have often described their ends as "just a few, trailing hairs" or something similar. 

Therefore, if you can maintain anything that even vaguely resemble a hemline of a desired shape, you are not at terminal length.

By using a picture and paint

This method is pretty simple: You make a plain English braid and take a picture of it. Then put it through any program where you can paint on it. 

You follow the taper of the braid and put in two straight lines following the outline of the braid. At one point the lines will intersect and that is the picture and paint-based guestimate for where your braid will end at your terminal length.

By graph

You will probably need help for this method.

Put your hair in a ponytail and compress it pretty well. Keep putting more elastics in along the length, like making the bubble ponytail, except without making volume. 

Measure the distance between each elastic and put those entries in on the X-axis of a graph.

Measure the circumference of your hair at each elastic and put those entries in on the Y-axis of a graph.

The data should give you something that looks like a sloping curve, that you can try to draw up looking a little straighter between data points. Where the curve hits the X-axis for Y=0, should be the terminal length and X will tell you how long that is guesstimated to.

By calculating

If you know a few things about your hair and hair growth, you can calculate your guesstimated terminal length.

The numbers you need to know are:

1. How fast your hair grows
2. How much you shed
3. How many hairs you have on your head 

Notes:

1. How fast your hair grows is fairly easy to measure, and most people interested in growing their hair longer will know this. This has a fairly high accuracy.
2. How much you shed can be counted by picking up your shed hairs and counting them. Of course the chance of getting your hands on all of them are low, but you can get a guestimate if you have some patience (Or are bored) This has a medium accuracy.
3. How many hairs you have on your head is just impossible to know, unless you are the most patient person on the planet. The numbers that gets repeated seems to be the same no matter the source though. Blonde hair has 150,000 hairs on the scalp, brown hair has 110,000,  black haired people come in at 100,000 and finally those with red hair only 90,000. For those inbetween-colours like mine, I guess you just have to guestimate. This has a low accuracy, especially if you start playing around with the difference just a few thousand hairs make.

First number you need to have, is how long it takes your scalp to replace all actively growing hairs.

So you take your guestimated number of hairs on your scalp and divide it by your shedding rate. If you have counted your shed hairs on a daily basis, go x 365, if you have any other counts, use that.

Like this: 

(Guestimated number of hairs on your scalp) / (Daily shedding rate x 365) = The number of years it will take your scalp to replace all actively growing hairs

Second number you need to know is how fast your hair grows in a year.

You either take your annual, or the monthly x 12. Depends on which number is trim free, because of course you need to know this without trims.

Like this:

((Monthly growth rate) x 12) + any seasonal variation if you have that = The annual total hair growth

Now take these two numbers and multiply them. 

Like this:

(The number of years it will take your scalp to replace all actively growing hairs) x (The annual total hair growth) = Your guestimated terminal length

This might be confusing to some, so here are my own numbers if it makes it easier to follow

(Guestimated number of hairs on my scalp) / (Daily shedding rate x 365) = The number of years it will take my scalp to replace all actively growing hairs

I'm going to go with the blonde number for this, so 150,000.
Years ago I actually tried picking up and counting my shed hairs for a full week (Yes, it was exactly as boring as it sounds. 2/10, would not recommend) and I think I landed at 60-something hairs per day. It's many years ago, so my memory at the numbers might fail me. Let's put it as an even 70 just to compensate for the hairs I didn't find.

150,000 / (70 x 365) = 150,000 / 25,550 = 5,8 years for my scalp to replace all actively growing hairs

((Monthly growth rate) x 12) + any seasonal variation = The annual total hair growth

I get a monthly 1,5 cm, plus 2-3 months during the summer where I get 2,0 cm. 

(1,5 x 12) + (2 x 0,5) = 18 + 1 = 19 cm of annual hair growth

(The number of years it will take your scalp to replace all actively growing hairs) x (The annual total hair growth) = Your guestimated terminal length

Now I multiply those numbers 

(The number of years it will take my scalp to replace all actively growing hairs) x (My annual total hair growth) = My guestimated terminal length

5,8 x 19 = 110, 2 cm

Even if we say that this is the maximum length for each individual hair, this is obviously not accurate to reality. If you play around with these numbers, you can see how huge a difference it makes to increase growth rate, reduce shedding rate or use a "between" count for the hair colours.

But hey, all these methods are guestimates :)

Blogging from A to Z challenge: S is for search and destroy

Back on the 5th I talked about dusting, and I thought it would be a good idea to compare the two methods. Both have their strengths and both have their weaknesses.

Where you trim without really looking for dusting, search and destroy is the opposite. You look for damaged areas, isolate the damaged hair strands and then cut the damaged area away a little bit up where the hair looks healthy and undamaged. How high up you should cut is a matter of opinion, but you should definitely take a few extra millimeter to make sure you have removed all the damage. 

Dusting

Good: You cut off all ends to keep them fresh and healthy, and you remove damaged areas before they really develop

Bad: You also cut length off healthy ends

Search and destroy

Good: You only remove damaged ends and don't cut off length off healthy ends

Bad: You can't always spot all damage and you don't remove damaged ends in the making

So which method is best?

Honestly I use both methods depending on what I feel like.

But as a general recommendation, I would say using S&D for the top to mid length is a good idea and using dusting for the mid length to ends is good. Once hair reaches a certain age, it's almost guaranteed to be damaged and a good dusting can help it look and feel a lot better.

Another recommendation is to keep your scissor near your computer, because the monitor has a good contrast for spotting damage against. 

 

Blogging from A to Z challenge: R is for Ron Quattro

Ron Quattro is my favorite hair tool maker!

I highly recommend them to anyone.

They are so simple, so elegant and so strong. No pointless decorations that can get stuck in your hair or damage it, just smooth and lightweight "workhorse" tools. I was hooked the first time I tried them, and my collection has only grown since.

I was genuinely upset when one of my Quattro forks was confiscated in Tenerife and started ordering new ones the second I sat on the place.

Blogging from A to Z challenge: Q is for Quaterniums

Quaterniums are pretty much the most confusing ingredients out there when it comes to hair care.

The real name behind them is quaternary ammonium cations, but are for obvious reasons referred to as quaterniums or just quats. The chemical names for quats can be even crazier, for example with quaternium 15, which has the chemical name methenamine 3-chloroallylochloride.

Quaterniums cover a whole group of positively charged molecules, and polyquaterniums are the same, only larger molecules consisting of, well, multiple quaterniums. Just like it says in the name. 

Being positively charged is a good thing for these molecules, because hairs cuticle is mildly negatively charged. Hair becomes more and more negatively charged with damage that ruins the surface of hair, so quaterniums will be attracted to these areas just like regular magnets sticking together. With the magnetic effect, the molecules can form an effective film around the surface of hair.
(I honestly didn’t understand a whole lot of the more technical and chemical explanations, but I think this is good enough for most people, at least it is for me)
Quaterniums don’t react to anything other than really strong bases, which will destroy them.

Quaterniums have properties that makes them antistatic, which means they are also used in fabric softeners. This was patented back in 1984.

This also explains the videos where people run dryer sheets through their hair and then film their amazed reactions. It's not some amazing new hack, it's just a matter of two products using some of the same ingredients to perform their functions.

Of course the potential negative in the quaterniums is right there in the explanation of how they work: They can cause build up in your hair because they bind strongly to the hair strand.

Depending on the type of quaternium, they can have lots of different functions and abilities, such as being an emulsifier for silicones, being anti-static, protecting your hair from loss of colour, smoothing damage or adding shine.

Polyquaterniums generally have good safety ratings and functions as film formers and anti-statics.  

So far, so good.

Now for the confusing part.

Each number following the word quaternium, is a different molecule and often completely different in size, structure, magnetic "pull", function and origin. 

The number following “quaternium” or “polyquaternium” is not based on the molecule, but on the order of which it was registered to The International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (Yes, that's a thing). And The International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) has over 40 different molecules listed under just the polyquaternium name.
Therefore, the higher the number, the newer the quaternium.
It would be a lot easier if the name were tied to something about the molecules, so you could have a broad rule of thumb such as “Low number better” or something. But nope.

Maybe, just maybe, and this is written with all the caution I can: The higher numbers are newer, and are probably more water soluble, since there seems to be a growing awareness of ingredients and their effect on hair. A lot of people worry about water-soluble-ability and build up in their hair products, and it would make sense that the creation and registration of newer quaterniums have a focus on that. But I might also overestimate consumer demand and understanding. After all, people still buy "natural" and "hair friendly" products.

To further the confusion, there are quaterniums that doesn’t have quaternium in the name. Such as stearalkonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, behentrimonium methosulfate behentrimonium chloride and cetrimonium chloride.

And just to make things even more confusing, there seems to be a Venn diagram of silicones and quaterniums. PEG-8 Distearmonium Chloride PG-Dimethicone, quaternium 86, quaternium-80, silicone Quaternium-1 and silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate are all both silicones and quaterniums. For some, you can figure it out from the name. From others, not so much. 

A silicone and quaternium with PEG or PPG in the name is so water soluble that it can be washed out with conditioner only washing or water only washing.

The following list was something I started on, but then sorta-kinda gave up on on making comprehensive. For starters, I couldn't find out for sure if all quaternium numbers are still in use, so that just added to the confusion.

On to the quaternium list...

PEG-8 Distearmonium Chloride PG-Dimethicone is both a silicone and a quaternium.

Polyquaternium- 4 is a film former with a glossy finish. Good for providing hold, even in humidity. Potential for build up is in the higher end. Good safety rating.

Polyquaternium-7 is an anti-static with a glossy finish and is good for providing hold. Moderate build up potential.

 
Polyquaternium-10 is also known as Quaternium-19. It can be listed on ingredient lists as plant cellulose, since it was derived from it. Smoothing film former with anti-static properties and light hold. Lower build up potential.

Polyquaternium-10 can be listed on ingredient lists as plant cellulose, since it was derived from it. Smoothing film former with anti-static properties and light hold. Moderate build up potential.

Polyquaternium-24 increases the stability of oil in watery solutions. Smoothing film former with anti-static properties. Good safety rating.

 
Polyquaternium-28 is made from PVP and methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride. Smoothing film former. Moderate build up potential. Good safety rating.

Polyquaternium-32 is a good anti-static. Provides good hold. This quaternium has some restrictions for concentrations, since it’s classified as expected to be toxic and suspected to be an environmental toxin. Moderate build up potential.

Polyquaternium-37 is often found in products for fine and thin hair because it helps “plump” hair up and increase volume. Good anti-static and provides good hold.

Polyquaternium-44 is an anti-static with a glossy finish and is good for providing hold. Lower build-Up potential.

Polyquaternium-47 is a smoothing film former with anti-static properties. Moderate build up potential. Good safety rating.

Polyquaternium-55 is a smoothing film former with anti-static properties and light hold. Moderate build up potential.

Polyquaternium-57 is made from castor oil. Smoothing film former with anti-static properties and light hold. Good safety rating.

Polyquatermium-59 has UV absorbing properties, so this is a sun protecting ingredient. Moderate build-up potential, but in this one, particular ingredients case, this is absolutely something you want it to do so it doesn’t sweat off in the sun!

Polyquaternium-69 is an anti-static with a glossy finish and is good for providing hold. Lower build-up potential. Good safety rating

Polyquaternium-87 is a film former with a glossy finish. Good for providing hold, even in humidity. Lower build-up potential.

Quaternium-14 is an antimicrobial, which means it inhibits or kills bacteria, viruses, fungi and protozoa. It is a smoothing film former with anti-static properties. Middle safety rating.

Quaternium-15 inhibits or kills yeast, molds and bacteria. Smoothing film former with anti-static properties and light hold. This quaternium releases formaldehyde, so it has a bad safety rating and is well known for causing allergic reactions.

Quaternium-20 can be listed on ingredient lists as plant cellulose, since it was derived from it. Smoothing film former that adds shine, with anti-static properties and light hold. Lower build up potential.

Quaternium-22 is a smoothing film former with anti-static properties and light hold. Middle safety rating.

Quaternium-23 is also known as polyquaternium-11. It can be listed on ingredient lists as plant cellulose, since it was derived from it. Used to keep products from separating. Smoothing film former with anti-static properties and light hold. Moderate build up potential.

Quaternium-26 is derived from mink oil. It is an anti-static with a glossy finish and is good for providing hold. Middle safety rating.

Quaternium-31 is also known as Dicetyldimonium chloride. It is a smoothing film former with anti-static properties. Used to keep products from separating.

Quaternium-33 is a smoothing film former with anti-static properties. Middle safety rating.

Quaternium-41 is also known as Polyquaternium-7. It is a smoothing film former with anti-static properties. Used to keep products from separating and help products foam. Good safety rating.

Quaternium-77 is a smoothing film former with anti-static properties. Middle safety rating.

Quaternium-80 is one of the quaterniums from the silicone/quaternium Venn diagram. Low build up potential.

Quaternium 86 is both a silicone and a quaternium.

Silicone Quaternium-1 is both a silicone and a quaternium.

Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate is both a silicone and a quaternium.

Blogging from A to Z challenge: P is for Protein

Disclaimer: I am not a nutritionist.

I tried to cover the importance of protein a while back. Here. 

I only looked into this because I worry about my upcoming surgery.

In eukaryotes, there are only 21 proteinogenic amino acids, the 20 of the standard genetic code, plus selenocysteine. 

Humans can synthesize 12 of these from each other or from other molecules of intermediary metabolism. 

The other nine must be consumed (usually as their protein derivatives), and so they are called essential amino acids. The essential amino acids are histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, threonine, tryptophan, and valine. 

Three are BCAAs: leucine, isoleucine, and valine

• 

  L-Alanine
  (Ala / A)
   
• 

  L-Arginine
  (Arg / R)
   
• 

  L-Asparagine
  (Asn / N)
   
• 

  L-Aspartic acid
  (Asp / D)
   
• 

  L-Cysteine
  (Cys / C)
   
• 

  L-Glutamic acid
  (Glu / E)
   
• 

  L-Glutamine
  (Gln / Q)
   
• 

  Glycine
  (Gly / G)
   
• 

  L-Histidine
  (His / H)
   
• 

  L-Isoleucine
  (Ile / I)
   
• 

  L-Leucine
  (Leu / L)
   
• 

  L-Lysine
  (Lys / K)
   
• 

  L-Methionine
  (Met / M)
   
• 

  L-Phenylalanine
  (Phe / F)
   
• 

  L-Proline
  (Pro / P)
   
• 

  L-Serine
  (Ser / S)
   
• 

  L-Threonine
  (Thr / T)
   
• 

  L-Tryptophan
  (Trp / W)
   
• 

  L-Tyrosine
  (Tyr / Y)
   
• 

  L-Valine
  (Val / V)

IUPAC/IUBMB now also recommends standard abbreviations for the following two amino acids:

• 

  L-Selenocysteine
  (Sec / U)
   
• 

  L-Pyrrolysine
  (Pyl / O)

Essential	Conditionally essential[3][4]	Non-essential
Histidine (H)	Arginine (R)	Alanine (A)
Isoleucine (I)	Cysteine (C)	Aspartic acid (D)
Leucine (L)	Glutamine (Q)	Asparagine (N)
Lysine (K)	Glycine (G)	Glutamic acid (E)
Methionine (M)	Proline (P)	Serine (S)
Phenylalanine (F)	Tyrosine (Y)	Selenocysteine (U)
Threonine (T)		Pyrrolysine* (O)
Tryptophan (W)
Valine (V)

Amino acids in hair
The most abundant amino acids are: Cysteine, cystine, serine, glutamic acid, glycine, threonine, arginine, valine, leucine and isoleucine. Alpha keratin, fibrous and with a low sulphur content, is the protein we find in the greatest quantity in hair. It has a molecular weight of around 45,000 and is insoluble in water.
Some 18 amino acids can be found in the hair, such as proline, threonine, leucine and arginine. Keratin is particularly rich in cysteine (a type of sulfurated amino acid), which forms disulfide bonds between molecules, adding rigidity and resistance to the entire structure.

The 18 found in human hair are alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, cystine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, prolyne, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine. In the list of the18 amino acids, are all 9 essential amino acids as well. 

1. Alanine is found in the highest concentrations in gelatin products, seaweed products, egg, turkey and beef.
2. Arginine is found in the highest concentrations in more obscure food sources, but some of the higher concentrations are found in crab, shrimp, lobster and spinach.
3. Aspartic acid is found in nectarines, peaches, cherries, plums, apricots, strawberries, lime and grapefruit.
4. Cysteine is found in the highest concentrations in egg white, beef, pork, milk and halibut. The amino acid cysteine forms the disulfide bonds between the other molecules and adds rigid strength to the hair structure. The rigid strength to hair is something that seems to be underrated a lot, but it is what gives hair the ability to snap and break instead of being pulled until the structural integrity is ruined.
5. Glutamic acid is found in the highest concentrations in soy protein products, defatted sunflower seed and peanut flour, egg white and parmesan.
6. Glycine is found in gelatin products, pork skin, pork products in general, chicken breast, and lamb.
7. Histidine is an essential amino acid. It's found in the highest concentrations in more obscure food sources, but some of the higher concentrations are found in parmesan, deer, defatted sunflower seed and peanut flour and pork
8. Isoleucine is an essential amino acid. Isoleucine is found in egg white, seaweeds, turkey, chicken and lamb.
9. Leucine is an essential amino acid. It's found in egg white, soy protein products, seaweed, chicken and tuna.
10. Lysine is an essential amino acid. Lysine is found in chicken, pudding, honey, canned pears, margarine and corn starch.
11. Methionine is an essential amino acid. It's found in egg white, halibut, chicken, tuna and turkey.
12. Phenylalanine is an essential amino acid. Phenylalanine is found in pollock, grouper, tilapia, duck, chicken, turkey and shrimp.
13. Prolyne is found in gelatin products, beef products, cream cheese, cottage cheese, savoy cabbage, cheddar and Colby cheese.
14. Serine is found in egg white, soy protein products, seaweed, turkey, cottage cheese and cream cheese.
15. Threonine is an essential amino acid. Threonine is found in watercress, seaweed, turkey and in fish like tilapia, tuna, pike and cod.
16. Tryptophan is an essential amino acid. It's found in seaweed, spinach, egg white, crab, shrimp and halibut.
17. Tyrosine is found in seaweed, soy protein products, egg white, cottage cheese, salmon and turkey. The amino acid tyrosine is also part of the complicated process of hair producing melanin. There are two types: Pheomelanin, present in light hair and eumelanin, which is present in dark hair.
18. Valine is an essential amino acid. Valine is found in egg white, seaweed, watercress, seaweed, turkey, tuna and cod.

I always consider the protein to calorie ratio, so to speak how many calories a gram of protein will "cost" me. 1 gram of protein is 4 calories of energy to the body. But how many extra calories gets "carried" with the protein content?

As a rule of thumb, a 1:10 ratio is really good, and not so easy to obtain. 

Just for fun, here is chapter 7 of Danberu nan kiro moteru? which is the only chapter of the manga where they talk about nutrition. 

I like the manga and the anime, so I figured it would be some nice entertainment to break the text up a bit with. So I'd like to use this to make a point....

 

In the anime, Akemi Soryuin has an average metabolic rate of 1366 calories burned per day. Otherwise her measurements are the same.

Hibiki Sakura's lunch here is obviously played for laughs, so I'm not going to analyze it.

Akemi Soryuin has an average metabolic rate of 1366 calories burned per day. Her lunch comes to 378 calories total, so this lunch is 27% of her daily calorie requirement.

Lets calculate her protein intake for this meal...

• Brown rice. 269 calories. Cooked, long-grained brown rice comes to around 110 calories per 100 gram, so 244 gram of rice. That's around 6,3 gram of protein. The protein to calorie rate is around 42:1. 
• Boiled broccoli. 15 calories. Broccoli is around 35 calories per 100 gram, so that is around 45 gram. 1,2 gram of protein and a protein to calories ratio of 12,5:1. Not bad!
• Salted bitter melon. 9 calories. I'm not entirely sure what kind of melon this is, but a guestimate after looking around for a bit, would put this down as 50 grams of whatever kind of melon this is. Turns out there are a few different bitter melons out there. Half a gram of protein, and a ratio of 18:1. 
• Pan-fried egg whites. 40 calories. The egg whites we have (Comes in a bottle instead of the individual packs, which is so much easier to work with) are 47 calories and 9,7 gram of protein per 100 gram/ml. So this is 85 ml of egg whites and 8,2 grams of protein. The ratio is 4,8:1, which is really good. Also consider the fact that egg whites are really high as a source for the amino acids on almost all amino acids. 
• Steamed chicken breast. 45 calories. I assume this is without skin or anything, so around 110 calories per 100 gram and a 40 gram portion. With 23 gram of proteins per 100 grams, this is 9,2 grams of protein. The ratio is 4,7:1, which exactly beats out the egg whites for best ratio.

This 378 calories bento lands at 25,4 grams of protein. The ratio is 14,8:1, which is pretty good actually.

I would have gotten rid of the rice entirely, since it comes to 71% of the total calories. 

But maybe that's just me who doesn't really care for rice, bread, potatoes and pasta in general (Strangely, that's mr Igor's favorites. He could seriously eat pita bread with butter all day every day. Gag.) And the steamed chicken breast sounds like it would taste like cardboard and sadness. 

If Akemi Soryuin's breakfast and dinner is around the same amount of calories as her lunch, there is not much "space" left for the two snacks she mentions. Especially not with the mentioned mackerel. 

I would have liked a little focus on the protein here, but it seems like the know what they're talking about just from running the numbers earlier!