Blogging from A to Z challenge: Q is for Quaterniums

Quaterniums are pretty much the most confusing ingredients out there when it comes to hair care.

The real name behind them is quaternary ammonium cations, but are for obvious reasons referred to as quaterniums or just quats. The chemical names for quats can be even crazier, for example with quaternium 15, which has the chemical name methenamine 3-chloroallylochloride.

Quaterniums cover a whole group of positively charged molecules, and polyquaterniums are the same, only larger molecules consisting of, well, multiple quaterniums. Just like it says in the name. 

Being positively charged is a good thing for these molecules, because hairs cuticle is mildly negatively charged. Hair becomes more and more negatively charged with damage that ruins the surface of hair, so quaterniums will be attracted to these areas just like regular magnets sticking together. With the magnetic effect, the molecules can form an effective film around the surface of hair.
(I honestly didn’t understand a whole lot of the more technical and chemical explanations, but I think this is good enough for most people, at least it is for me)
Quaterniums don’t react to anything other than really strong bases, which will destroy them.

Quaterniums have properties that makes them antistatic, which means they are also used in fabric softeners. This was patented back in 1984.

This also explains the videos where people run dryer sheets through their hair and then film their amazed reactions. It's not some amazing new hack, it's just a matter of two products using some of the same ingredients to perform their functions.

Of course the potential negative in the quaterniums is right there in the explanation of how they work: They can cause build up in your hair because they bind strongly to the hair strand.

Depending on the type of quaternium, they can have lots of different functions and abilities, such as being an emulsifier for silicones, being anti-static, protecting your hair from loss of colour, smoothing damage or adding shine.

Polyquaterniums generally have good safety ratings and functions as film formers and anti-statics.  

So far, so good.

Now for the confusing part.

Each number following the word quaternium, is a different molecule and often completely different in size, structure, magnetic "pull", function and origin. 

The number following “quaternium” or “polyquaternium” is not based on the molecule, but on the order of which it was registered to The International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (Yes, that's a thing). And The International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) has over 40 different molecules listed under just the polyquaternium name.
Therefore, the higher the number, the newer the quaternium.
It would be a lot easier if the name were tied to something about the molecules, so you could have a broad rule of thumb such as “Low number better” or something. But nope.

Maybe, just maybe, and this is written with all the caution I can: The higher numbers are newer, and are probably more water soluble, since there seems to be a growing awareness of ingredients and their effect on hair. A lot of people worry about water-soluble-ability and build up in their hair products, and it would make sense that the creation and registration of newer quaterniums have a focus on that. But I might also overestimate consumer demand and understanding. After all, people still buy "natural" and "hair friendly" products.

To further the confusion, there are quaterniums that doesn’t have quaternium in the name. Such as stearalkonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, behentrimonium methosulfate behentrimonium chloride and cetrimonium chloride.

And just to make things even more confusing, there seems to be a Venn diagram of silicones and quaterniums. PEG-8 Distearmonium Chloride PG-Dimethicone, quaternium 86, quaternium-80, silicone Quaternium-1 and silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate are all both silicones and quaterniums. For some, you can figure it out from the name. From others, not so much. 

A silicone and quaternium with PEG or PPG in the name is so water soluble that it can be washed out with conditioner only washing or water only washing.

The following list was something I started on, but then sorta-kinda gave up on on making comprehensive. For starters, I couldn't find out for sure if all quaternium numbers are still in use, so that just added to the confusion.

On to the quaternium list...

PEG-8 Distearmonium Chloride PG-Dimethicone is both a silicone and a quaternium.

Polyquaternium- 4 is a film former with a glossy finish. Good for providing hold, even in humidity. Potential for build up is in the higher end. Good safety rating.

Polyquaternium-7 is an anti-static with a glossy finish and is good for providing hold. Moderate build up potential.

 
Polyquaternium-10 is also known as Quaternium-19. It can be listed on ingredient lists as plant cellulose, since it was derived from it. Smoothing film former with anti-static properties and light hold. Lower build up potential.

Polyquaternium-10 can be listed on ingredient lists as plant cellulose, since it was derived from it. Smoothing film former with anti-static properties and light hold. Moderate build up potential.

Polyquaternium-24 increases the stability of oil in watery solutions. Smoothing film former with anti-static properties. Good safety rating.

 
Polyquaternium-28 is made from PVP and methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride. Smoothing film former. Moderate build up potential. Good safety rating.

Polyquaternium-32 is a good anti-static. Provides good hold. This quaternium has some restrictions for concentrations, since it’s classified as expected to be toxic and suspected to be an environmental toxin. Moderate build up potential.

Polyquaternium-37 is often found in products for fine and thin hair because it helps “plump” hair up and increase volume. Good anti-static and provides good hold.

Polyquaternium-44 is an anti-static with a glossy finish and is good for providing hold. Lower build-Up potential.

Polyquaternium-47 is a smoothing film former with anti-static properties. Moderate build up potential. Good safety rating.

Polyquaternium-55 is a smoothing film former with anti-static properties and light hold. Moderate build up potential.

Polyquaternium-57 is made from castor oil. Smoothing film former with anti-static properties and light hold. Good safety rating.

Polyquatermium-59 has UV absorbing properties, so this is a sun protecting ingredient. Moderate build-up potential, but in this one, particular ingredients case, this is absolutely something you want it to do so it doesn’t sweat off in the sun!

Polyquaternium-69 is an anti-static with a glossy finish and is good for providing hold. Lower build-up potential. Good safety rating

Polyquaternium-87 is a film former with a glossy finish. Good for providing hold, even in humidity. Lower build-up potential.

Quaternium-14 is an antimicrobial, which means it inhibits or kills bacteria, viruses, fungi and protozoa. It is a smoothing film former with anti-static properties. Middle safety rating.

Quaternium-15 inhibits or kills yeast, molds and bacteria. Smoothing film former with anti-static properties and light hold. This quaternium releases formaldehyde, so it has a bad safety rating and is well known for causing allergic reactions.

Quaternium-20 can be listed on ingredient lists as plant cellulose, since it was derived from it. Smoothing film former that adds shine, with anti-static properties and light hold. Lower build up potential.

Quaternium-22 is a smoothing film former with anti-static properties and light hold. Middle safety rating.

Quaternium-23 is also known as polyquaternium-11. It can be listed on ingredient lists as plant cellulose, since it was derived from it. Used to keep products from separating. Smoothing film former with anti-static properties and light hold. Moderate build up potential.

Quaternium-26 is derived from mink oil. It is an anti-static with a glossy finish and is good for providing hold. Middle safety rating.

Quaternium-31 is also known as Dicetyldimonium chloride. It is a smoothing film former with anti-static properties. Used to keep products from separating.

Quaternium-33 is a smoothing film former with anti-static properties. Middle safety rating.

Quaternium-41 is also known as Polyquaternium-7. It is a smoothing film former with anti-static properties. Used to keep products from separating and help products foam. Good safety rating.

Quaternium-77 is a smoothing film former with anti-static properties. Middle safety rating.

Quaternium-80 is one of the quaterniums from the silicone/quaternium Venn diagram. Low build up potential.

Quaternium 86 is both a silicone and a quaternium.

Silicone Quaternium-1 is both a silicone and a quaternium.

Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate is both a silicone and a quaternium.