Sunscreen
is one of those things where I start to feel stupid. It seems like when I learn
one thing, the next thing I learn is that the first thing I learned wasn’t
really carved in stone and depends on a whole lot of other things. Meh.
I get
confused at all the UV’s: UVA1, UVA2, UVB and UV…C?
Anyways.
Sunscreen is good. Even the worst sunscreen is better than no sunscreen.
Sunscreen
is also good for hair. The UV rays will break down the structure and strength
of your hair, much like it does to old fabrics or paintings.
Covering
your hair is a great thing, especially in the summer: It protects hair and
scalp from sun and drying out. Not to mention salt or chlorine or whatever you
can expose it to.
But
sunscreen is a good thing to invest in when it comes to hair.
The active
ingredients in sunscreen come in two versions: Physical and chemical.
Physical sunscreen
Physical
ingredients sit on your skin’s surface forming a protective barrier and don’t
have the ability to be absorbed into your skin. Physical sunscreens protect your skin from the
sun by deflecting or blocking the sun's rays. They start protecting immediately
upon application and don’t degrade with exposure to sunlight.
Physical sunscreen
ingredients
Zinc oxide (TiO2) protects you from UVB and most of UVA providing
more UVA protection than titanium dioxide. Listed at the top of the FDA
monograph as effective sun protection and considered the best broad spectrum
protection. Zinc oxide is also known for its mild antimicrobial and wound
healing properties. Zinc
oxide is generally safe. It can be used on delicate skin and is a main ingredient
in diaper rash cream.
Titanium
dioxide (ZnO) protects you from UVB and short UVA
radiation but not long UVA known to cause sun damage and aging in humans.
Derived from the highly reflective chalky, white mineral, titanium, it's
non-irritating, non-comedogenic, and for cosmetic use micronized by forming
many small micro particles allowing your own skin tone to show. Titanium
dioxide can be problematic for some people. (If you break out from mineral make
up and physical sunscreen, titanium dioxide could be the culprit.)
Chemical
sunscreen
Chemical
ingredients work by absorbing the sun's rays. Some chemical filters can scatter
sun rays, but still mostly just absorb them. Chemical filters tend to be more
irritating to skin. If it gets in your eyes, it can make your eyes sting and
water. Some can also cause allergic reactions. Chemical filters offer more
coverage against UVA and UVB rays than physical sunscreens, but the range of
protection will depend on the particular active and its stability. You must
wait 20 minutes after application for effective sun protection.
Chemical sunscreen
ingredients
Aminobenzoic Acid (PABA) PABA protects against UVB but not UVA. It was discovered to have
harmful health effects and so its use is highly discouraged.
Avobenzone,
Extensive UVA and
limited UVB
Cinnamates
(octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), UVB
Cinoxate, Extensive UVB and limited UVA.
Dioxybenzone
(UVB, UVAII), Extensive
UVB and considerable UVA.
Ecamsule (Mexoryl SX)Extensive UVA and limited UVB.
Ensulizole(Phenylbenzimiazole Sulfonic Acid), UVB
Ethylhexyl
p-Methoxycinnamate, high incident of contact irritation, non comedogenic,
widely used), UVB
Homosalate, Minimal UVA and extensive UVB.
Menthyl
Anthranilate, Considerable
UVA and extensive UVB.
Meradimate(Menthyl Anthranilate), UVA
Octinoxate(Octyl Methoxycinnamate), UVB
Octisalate( Octyl Salicylate), UVB
Octocrylene,
Limited UVA and
extensive UVB.
Octyl
dimethyl paba, UVB
Octyl Methoxycinnamate (OMC) Limited UVA and extensive UVB.UVB
Octyl Salicylate, Minimal UVA and extensive UVB.
Oxybenzone
(benzophenone, benzophenone-3), Considerable UVA and extensive UVB.
Padimate O,
Minimal UVA and
extensive UVB.
Para-aminobenzoic
acid (PABA), UVB
Parsol
1789, UVA
Phenylbenzimidazole, Minimal UVA and extensive UVB.
Salicylates
(octyl salicytate (OCS), high incident of contact irritation, widely used), UVB
Sulisobenzone
(UVB, UVAII).
Considerable UVA and extensive UVB.
Trolamine
salicylate, Minimal UVA
and extensive UVB.
With this
in mind, I took a look at my own usual SPF and was pleasantly surprised: My
Garnier Ambre Solaire contains titanium dioxide and some chemical sunscreen ingredients and the Elvital
Colour-vive spray that boasts of “UV nutri-filter” I had my serious doubts
about, actually does contain chemical sunscreen ingredients. Pleasant surprise,
I had my doubt if it actually contained any actual SPF or not, especially since
there is no regulation when it comes to slapping “SPF” or “UV” on a hair
product.
Adding your
own sunscreen
I recommend
people getting a good, expensive hair spray with SPF. Seriously, this is one of
the few instances where I will recommend salon products or a good splurge. Use
it to mist over all exposed parts of your hair and scalp, especially in the
summer.
Of course
you can always add sunscreen on your own. I find I can add a good tablespoon of
heavy sunscreen to my 200 ml of Sunsilk leave in-conditioner without it messes
with the texture or end result. It may not add up to a lot of active SPF, but
any protection is better than none.
You can
also add a little bit of a SPF spray to a normal leave in-conditioner spray,
but I haven’t experimented with how much it can “take”.