Monday, 19 April 2021

Blogging from A to Z challenge: P is for Protein

#AtoZChallenge 2021 April Blogging from A to Z Challenge letter P

Disclaimer: I am not a nutritionist.

I tried to cover the importance of protein a while back. Here. 

I only looked into this because I worry about my upcoming surgery.

In eukaryotes, there are only 21 proteinogenic amino acids, the 20 of the standard genetic code, plus selenocysteine. 
Humans can synthesize 12 of these from each other or from other molecules of intermediary metabolism. 
The other nine must be consumed (usually as their protein derivatives), and so they are called essential amino acids. The essential amino acids are histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, threonine, tryptophan, and valine. 
Three are BCAAs: leucine, isoleucine, and valine

IUPAC/IUBMB now also recommends standard abbreviations for the following two amino acids:

EssentialConditionally essential[3][4]Non-essential
Histidine (H)Arginine (R)Alanine (A)
Isoleucine (I)Cysteine (C)Aspartic acid (D)
Leucine (L)Glutamine (Q)Asparagine (N)
Lysine (K)Glycine (G)Glutamic acid (E)
Methionine (M)Proline (P)Serine (S)
Phenylalanine (F)Tyrosine (Y)Selenocysteine (U)
Threonine (T)
Pyrrolysine* (O)
Tryptophan (W)
Valine (V)

Amino acids in hair
The most abundant amino acids are: Cysteine, cystine, serine, glutamic acid, glycine, threonine, arginine, valine, leucine and isoleucine. Alpha keratin, fibrous and with a low sulphur content, is the protein we find in the greatest quantity in hair. It has a molecular weight of around 45,000 and is insoluble in water.
Some 18 amino acids can be found in the hair, such as proline, threonine, leucine and arginine. Keratin is particularly rich in cysteine (a type of sulfurated amino acid), which forms disulfide bonds between molecules, adding rigidity and resistance to the entire structure.

The 18 found in human hair are alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, cystine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, prolyne, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine. In the list of the18 amino acids, are all 9 essential amino acids as well. 


  1. Alanine is found in the highest concentrations in gelatin products, seaweed products, egg, turkey and beef.
  2. Arginine is found in the highest concentrations in more obscure food sources, but some of the higher concentrations are found in crab, shrimp, lobster and spinach.
  3. Aspartic acid is found in nectarines, peaches, cherries, plums, apricots, strawberries, lime and grapefruit.
  4. Cysteine is found in the highest concentrations in egg white, beef, pork, milk and halibut. The amino acid cysteine forms the disulfide bonds between the other molecules and adds rigid strength to the hair structure. The rigid strength to hair is something that seems to be underrated a lot, but it is what gives hair the ability to snap and break instead of being pulled until the structural integrity is ruined.
  5. Glutamic acid is found in the highest concentrations in soy protein products, defatted sunflower seed and peanut flour, egg white and parmesan.
  6. Glycine is found in gelatin products, pork skin, pork products in general, chicken breast, and lamb.
  7. Histidine is an essential amino acid. It's found in the highest concentrations in more obscure food sources, but some of the higher concentrations are found in parmesan, deer, defatted sunflower seed and peanut flour and pork
  8. Isoleucine is an essential amino acid. Isoleucine is found in egg white, seaweeds, turkey, chicken and lamb.
  9. Leucine is an essential amino acid. It's found in egg white, soy protein products, seaweed, chicken and tuna.
  10. Lysine is an essential amino acid. Lysine is found in chicken, pudding, honey, canned pears, margarine and corn starch.
  11. Methionine is an essential amino acid. It's found in egg white, halibut, chicken, tuna and turkey.
  12. Phenylalanine is an essential amino acid. Phenylalanine is found in pollock, grouper, tilapia, duck, chicken, turkey and shrimp.
  13. Prolyne is found in gelatin products, beef products, cream cheese, cottage cheese, savoy cabbage, cheddar and Colby cheese.
  14. Serine is found in egg white, soy protein products, seaweed, turkey, cottage cheese and cream cheese.
  15. Threonine is an essential amino acid. Threonine is found in watercress, seaweed, turkey and in fish like tilapia, tuna, pike and cod.
  16. Tryptophan is an essential amino acid. It's found in seaweed, spinach, egg white, crab, shrimp and halibut.
  17. Tyrosine is found in seaweed, soy protein products, egg white, cottage cheese, salmon and turkey. The amino acid tyrosine is also part of the complicated process of hair producing melanin. There are two types: Pheomelanin, present in light hair and eumelanin, which is present in dark hair.
  18. Valine is an essential amino acid. Valine is found in egg white, seaweed, watercress, seaweed, turkey, tuna and cod.
I always consider the protein to calorie ratio, so to speak how many calories a gram of protein will "cost" me. 1 gram of protein is 4 calories of energy to the body. But how many extra calories gets "carried" with the protein content?
As a rule of thumb, a 1:10 ratio is really good, and not so easy to obtain. 


Just for fun, here is chapter 7 of Danberu nan kiro moteru? which is the only chapter of the manga where they talk about nutrition. 
I like the manga and the anime, so I figured it would be some nice entertainment to break the text up a bit with. So I'd like to use this to make a point....
 

In the anime, Akemi Soryuin has an average metabolic rate of 1366 calories burned per day. Otherwise her measurements are the same.




Hibiki Sakura's lunch here is obviously played for laughs, so I'm not going to analyze it.





Akemi Soryuin has an average metabolic rate of 1366 calories burned per day. Her lunch comes to 378 calories total, so this lunch is 27% of her daily calorie requirement.
Lets calculate her protein intake for this meal...
  • Brown rice. 269 calories. Cooked, long-grained brown rice comes to around 110 calories per 100 gram, so 244 gram of rice. That's around 6,3 gram of protein. The protein to calorie rate is around 42:1. 
  • Boiled broccoli. 15 calories. Broccoli is around 35 calories per 100 gram, so that is around 45 gram. 1,2 gram of protein and a protein to calories ratio of 12,5:1. Not bad!
  • Salted bitter melon. 9 calories. I'm not entirely sure what kind of melon this is, but a guestimate after looking around for a bit, would put this down as 50 grams of whatever kind of melon this is. Turns out there are a few different bitter melons out there. Half a gram of protein, and a ratio of 18:1. 
  • Pan-fried egg whites. 40 calories. The egg whites we have (Comes in a bottle instead of the individual packs, which is so much easier to work with) are 47 calories and 9,7 gram of protein per 100 gram/ml. So this is 85 ml of egg whites and 8,2 grams of protein. The ratio is 4,8:1, which is really good. Also consider the fact that egg whites are really high as a source for the amino acids on almost all amino acids. 
  • Steamed chicken breast. 45 calories. I assume this is without skin or anything, so around 110 calories per 100 gram and a 40 gram portion. With 23 gram of proteins per 100 grams, this is 9,2 grams of protein. The ratio is 4,7:1, which exactly beats out the egg whites for best ratio.
This 378 calories bento lands at 25,4 grams of protein. The ratio is 14,8:1, which is pretty good actually.
I would have gotten rid of the rice entirely, since it comes to 71% of the total calories. 
But maybe that's just me who doesn't really care for rice, bread, potatoes and pasta in general (Strangely, that's mr Igor's favorites. He could seriously eat pita bread with butter all day every day. Gag.) And the steamed chicken breast sounds like it would taste like cardboard and sadness. 


If Akemi Soryuin's breakfast and dinner is around the same amount of calories as her lunch, there is not much "space" left for the two snacks she mentions. Especially not with the mentioned mackerel. 


I would have liked a little focus on the protein here, but it seems like the know what they're talking about just from running the numbers earlier!



Saturday, 17 April 2021

Blogging from A to Z challenge: O is for Oils

#AtoZChallenge 2021 April Blogging from A to Z Challenge letter O 

Yesterday I wrote a whole lot about Nightblooming and how I'm generally not big on DIY or kitchen witching. It also extends to using oils in general.
It's weird, because using oils seems to be such a must, or even the norm among super long hairs. But nope, I never really got into it.

I have a few oils I always keep at hand, but I'm not really good at making it a routine to use them.
I have a bottle of hemp oil at my massage therapists place instead of using her standard oil, but that's about how much routine my oil usage is.

For skin I always have: Argan and hemp oil. 

Hemp oil has a bit of a special place in my heart: Many years ago, I was outside on a hot summer day in some new slippers. I don't know how or why, but it was like the slippers caused a chemical burn or something on the bottom of my feet. I have never experienced that before or after. It hurt and burned! No matter what I did with cold water and creams, it just kept burning. I whined on LHC and someone recommended hemp oil. Hemp oil soothed the pain immediately! Since then, I've always had hemp oil at hand, but I haven't figured out a routine with it.

For hair: Coconut oil, argan oil and Nightbloomings Jasmine Green Tea mister.

Coconut oil has some solid science behind it as being good for hair, but unfortunately it immediately clogs up my pores, so I need to be very careful to keep it away from my skin.
Argan oil is generally good for both skin and hair.
The Jasmine Green Tea mister just smells really nice and is good for keeping my ends from drying up when I braid it or put it up.

Friday, 16 April 2021

Blogging from A to Z challenge: N is for Nightblooming

#AtoZChallenge 2021 April Blogging from A to Z Challenge letter N

It's no secret that I were never much of a kitchen witch. I think it's cool that some people can whip up all these awesome potions for skin and hair in their own kitchen, but I honestly could never really bother.
 
Since my allergies to aloe vera pressed with skin and sea buckthorn have only become worse, I'm good with leaving it to everyone else and sticking to things that are properly labelled by people in lab coats, thankyouverymuch. Basically, at this point I can't trust anything that is an "extract", since I never know if the material used to extract with is aloe vera pressed with skin, or some other nasty I react to.

The only exception I have to this rule, is Nightblooming. Who I know and trust well enough to use her products. (And who is generally an all-around cool person and wrote some classic hair literature) 
So whenever I post pictures of myself with cassia mud smeared all over, it's always from Nightblooming.


Writing about this made me want to do a cassia mud treatment. I haven't bothered to do those for a long while by now. 
I keep a batch of boiled and frozen Rusalki Strawberry Blonde Herbal Henna Hair Color and Conditioner ready in the freezer for this. Supposedly boiling and freezing the herbs makes the plant cells break down to release the "actives" in them better.


The Rusalki is a mix and doesn't dye a whole lot, but since I want to get the can-only-spot-it-if-you-know-it effect and vague watercolour from it, I felt that three little chunks of 17 grams would be enough. 


Some people do their cassie/henna mud with just water, but I like mine as a conditioner base, so I get a good, regular conditioning at the same time. It seems to work, but of course the herbal purists always tell me I'm wrong. Meh. I'm okay with that.
I added a bottle of (ridiculously overpriced) Olaplex to it. Olaplex never really "did" anything for me, but if the science is right, it's a good product and a good choice for a long conditioning. 


100 gram of Organic Cassia Obovata to the mix. Mmm, smells like fresh peas and green vegetables.


And then I pretty much "filled up" until it had a nice, thick muddy texture. I reviewed the OGX Biotin & collagen a while back and thought it was the best choice for deep conditioner out of the four OGX I tried. So it will serve as the base for that again.


A good rinse and letting my hair semi dry again. 
Also, a before-picture. Not that I expect to be able to spot any colour difference. I actually hope I can't. 


Henna-cassia mud sexiness.
Getting it everywhere is kind of hard to avoid!


Cling wrap, bandage and... Hmm, something missing....


Doing the eyebrows too!
This mixture was surprisingly less drippy than usual. I don't know if it was the OGX Biotin & collagen or just that since cassia is a natural product, it's never 100% the same. 
I usually spend the first hour in the bathtub just because the unavoidable dripping is so much less annoying there, but I ended up cutting it a lot shorter and getting out.
I will definitely use the OGX Biotin & collagen as base again if it is what keeps the damn dripping down.


The heatcap, which mr Igor had named "The Smurf" for obvious reasons. I think I managed to kill four hours like this before I got bored.


Rinsed clean and can't see any colour difference. Good!


Still moist, braided and still can't see any colour difference. Maybe a little in the eyebrows, strange enough?


Fully dried and up in a braided Nautilus bun. Maybe it's the contrasting, green hoodie, but now I actually think I can see a little bit of a tint. Not at the length, but at the scalp it seems a tiny bit more red than normal. But this is the can-only-spot-it-if-you-know-it tint I wanted, so I'm happy. 
And my hair felt generally happy. It looks shiny and nice. 


Melissa/Nightblooming is found the following places: 

And speaking of Nightblooming, her Etsy store is turning 14 years old this week!
She usually has a sale going on around her store's birthday, so it's worth checking out.

Thursday, 15 April 2021

Blogging from A to Z challenge: M is for Music

#AtoZChallenge 2021 April Blogging from A to Z Challenge letter M

On a whim, I decided to go for "music" for M for a fun little break from all the text. But once I started looking, I found a lot. Like, fascinatingly much.


Andrew Bird - Music Of Hair


AOA - Short hair


The Beatles - Lend me your comb


Bright Eyes - Pull My Hair


D.A.D. - I Won't Cut My Hair


India.Arie - I Am Not My Hair ft. Akon


The Cowsills- Hair


Hair - The Hair song


Julie Brown - Cause I'm a Blond


Kelly Rowland - Crown


Lady Gaga - Hair


Led Zeppelin - Long Brown Wavy Hair


Niki and Gabi - Hair tie


Nina Simone - Black Is The Color Of My True Love's Hair


Little Mix - Hair ft. Sean Paul


MAGIC! - Let Your Hair Down


Pavement - Cut Your Hair


R. Kelly - Hair Braider


Sesame Street - I Love My Hair


Solange - Don't Touch My Hair ft. Sampha


The Vamps - Hair Too Long


UFO YEPHA- Op med håret
("Put your hair up", literally "Up with the hair")


Willow Smith - Whip My Hair

Okay, the last one is about beards but still...


Natalie Portman's Shaved Head - Beard lust

Wednesday, 14 April 2021

Blogging from A to Z challenge: L is for Leave in conditioners

#AtoZChallenge 2021 April Blogging from A to Z Challenge letter L 

Back on the 3rd I mentioned the three most important tips for growing hair long, that I encountered with I first found the longhair circuit.

Blogging, Conditioner-based washing methods, and number three is using leave in conditioners. 

Leave in conditoners are awesome!
They make hair so much easier to manage by both adding slip and grip depending on the product. They add some hold and control to your updos. They add shine and a nice scent. They protect your hair from wear and weather. Some even have UV protection!
(And if they don't, you can usually get away with adding a tablespoon of regular SPF to a 200 ml bottle without messing too much with the product)

Depending on your hair type and what you want from them, there is something for everyone.

In short: They are awesome and everyone should use them.

Tuesday, 13 April 2021

Blogging from A to Z challenge: K is for Ketylo

#AtoZChallenge 2021 April Blogging from A to Z Challenge letter K

The Ketylo hair stick is something I don't think gets enough credit in the longhair circuit.
Although there are other hair tool makers out there who have tried to copy the idea, Ketylos have the best shape from what I've seen.

Why do I find Ketylos so brilliant?

Simple. The vague corkscrew shape. Not too much, not too little.


For someone with as much hair as me, it helps me with two important things:

1) Inserting the hair stick. Instead of pushing into a single, stuck track, you can screw the hair stick in. It helps the stick to find the path of least resistance through your hair instead of being forced in a pre-set path. You can never get the strain on your hair 100% uniform, so you want to avoid the high tension spots that can hurt you.

2) It helps ease the load of holding up the updo. If your updo doesn't feel completely comfortable, simply rotating the Ketylos can pinpoint a position where your stick is more comfortable than another. For someone who absolutely hates messing with her hair once it has been put up, this is an important point.

Saturday, 10 April 2021

Blogging from A to Z challenge: I is for Ingredients to look out for

#AtoZChallenge 2021 April Blogging from A to Z Challenge letter I

This is my personal list of ingredients I look out for in a product. Unfortunately this is not a complete list, since that would be several pages long, but this is just a rough overview. 

As a general rule, I like silicones. It probably comes with the coarsie-territory, but I never had issues with cones and they really help to keep my hair manageable. 
Amodimethicone is a cone particularly prone to build up.
Dimethicone is an emollient and silicone
Dimethiconol is a silicone polymer, which is a non-water soluble film former. Since it isn't water soluble, it's a silicone that builds up easily. 

I also like Quaterniums. I know some don't. 
Polyquaternium-10 is a quaternium ammonium compound that is particularly prone to building up.
Polyquaternium-37 is a quaternium ammonium compound and will bind to the damaged areas of hair.
Quaternium-87 is a quaternium ammonium compound and will bind to the damaged areas of hair.

I generally try to avoid too much proteins since my hair is as coarse as it is. Protein just attaches to the surface and can't penetrate to where it should go, so it leaves my hair crunchy and irritated.
Arginine is an amino acid found in human hair and supposedly promotes circulation and stimulates growth hormones to prevent hair loss.
Betaine is an amino acid with humectant properties.
Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin is a protein
Hydrolyzed Keratin is a protein
Hydrolyzed collagen is a protein
Hydrolyzed keratin is a protein
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein is a protein

I also have a list of more or less random ingredients I like in my products.
Allantoin has a soothing effect on skin.
Cetearyl Alcohol is an emulsifier which means it lowers the surface tension between oil and water so it can dissolve oils and be used for cleansing
Cetyl Alcohol is an emulsifier which means it lowers the surface tension between oil and water so it can dissolve oils and be used for cleansing
Cetyl Esters is an emollient that soften hair and soothes the scalp
Creatine rebuilds and strengthen the hair structure  
Glycerin is a really good moisturizer and an humectant.
Niacinamide aka vitamin B3 is a very effective skin-restoring ingredient against ageing and environmental stress. Not entirely sure what good it would be for hair, but I can't protest against having it in a product that touches my scalp.
Panthenol does maybe-maybe not penetrate and strengthen hair.

I love sunscreen in my products! I'm not sure how much good it does, especially in rinse-off products, but I don't care. Even the tiniest little bit of effect is better than none.
Avobenzone is the best UVA protection of non-mineral filters, but also protects against UVB. Good safety rating.
Ethylhexyl Triazone is a sunscreen protecting against UVB radiation.
Homosalate is a UVA and UVB protector with a decent safety rating.
Mexoryl SX has strong UVA protection
Octinoxate (Octyl methoxycinnamate) is a powerful UVB protector with a bad safety rating. It also goes under the name of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and octyl methoxycinnamate. I dig into this one a little bit more here
Octisalate is a UVA and UVB protector with a decent safety rating.
Octocrylene is a UVA and UVB protector with a decent safety rating.
Oxybenzone is a UVA and UVB protector with a bad safety rating. It could be a problem for sensitive skin types and there are some concerns about its impact on the oceans.
Titanium dioxide is a physical UVA and UVB protector with a decent safety rating.
Zinc oxide has excellent, physical UVA protection, but also protects against UVB. Is a potential acne trigger even though it’s generally considered safe for skin.

I generally avoid extracts, because you never really know what actually is in them. There is an episode of The Snailcast where Shell of Holysnails talks about how a supplier to her webshop offered her ruby extract to add to her products. Which is completely nonsensical, but explains a lot of what extracts can be. It can be something good, but it can also be a root quickly dipped in a bucket of alcohol. What it takes to extract the extract is never specified.